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<entry>
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   <published>2006-09-19T17:06:32Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-10T01:13:58Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Feb 2007: Many of the links are down and some pictures aren&apos;t loading due to recent site renovations. If you need something that you can&apos;t access right now, please email me at ssweeney44@yahoo.com No new postings are planned for a...</summary>
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      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
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      <![CDATA[Feb  2007:  

<strong>Many of the links are down and some pictures aren't loading due to recent site renovations.  If you need something that you can't access right now, please email me at ssweeney44@yahoo.com</strong>

No new postings are planned for a while so please enjoy the 200 plus articles already on the site. And, please continue to post comments and questions. 


Sue]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>MOTHS (PHALAENOPSIS): THE EASIEST HOUSE ORCHID</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/07/moths_phalaenopsis_the_easiest.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.411</id>
   
   <published>2006-07-25T20:31:17Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best July 23, 2006, Issue 213 July 30, 2006, Issue 214 MOTHS (PHALAENOPSIS): THE EASIEST HOUSE ORCHID Once orchids were for the rich. Today, thanks to tissue cloning, you can buy them at the grocery store....</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
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      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i>

July 23, 2006, Issue 213
July 30, 2006, Issue 214
<p>
<DIV ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> MOTHS (PHALAENOPSIS): THE EASIEST HOUSE ORCHID </b></FONT SIZE="+2"></DIV ALIGN=CENTER>

Once orchids were for the rich.  Today, thanks to tissue cloning, you can buy them at the grocery store.  But what do you do with them once you get them home?

<img alt="phal-at-the-store650x322.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/phal-at-the-store650x322.jpg" width="650" height="322" />
PICTURE: <i>Phalaenopsis</i> for sale in a  garden center in Stamford CT, 2006.

With the generous assistance of <i>Phalaenopsis</i> expert, Molly Dugger Brennan, of <a href ="http://www.brennansorchids.com/">Brennan's Orchids, LLC</a>, <b><i>TheMondayGarden.com's</i> </B> section on caring for <i>Phalaenopsis</i> orchids is being updated via Issue 213 and Issue 214.

 <a href ="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2005/03/moths_phalaenop.html">CLICK HERE </a> for Issue 213, an up-date on "MOTHS (PHALAENOPSIS): THE EASIEST HOUSE ORCHID; 

<a href ="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2004/07/phalaenopsis_ca_1.html">CLICK HERE </a>  for Issue 214, Molly's own "PHALAENOPSIS CARE: A PRIMER", and lastly 

 <a href ="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2004/07/has_your_phalae.html">CLICK HERE </a> for Issue 213, Part 2, "HAS YOUR PHALAENOPSIS GONE TUBULAR?",  an interview with Molly about a condition which affects some Phalaenopsis orchids.

<p>
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<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney (except as indicated) 
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<entry>
   <title>WHAT GREAT AMERICAN GARDENERS DO NOT DO</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/07/what_great_american_gardeners_1.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.410</id>
   
   <published>2006-07-16T15:27:29Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best July 16, 2006, Issue 212 WHAT GREAT AMERICAN GARDENERS DO NOT DO To make more time for new material, TheMondayGarden.com is going bi-weekly for new articles; in between, there&apos;ll be an upgrading of existing material....</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.themondaygarden.com/">
      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
July 16, 2006, Issue 212
<p>
<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> WHAT GREAT AMERICAN GARDENERS DO NOT DO </b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
<p>

To make more time for new material, TheMondayGarden.com is going bi-weekly for new articles; in between, there'll be an upgrading of existing material. So today, please re-visit <a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/gardening_outdoors/natural_gardening/"> Issue 171</a> (July 3, 2005) WHAT GREAT AMERICAN GARDENERS DO NOT DO, to renew our patriotic commitment to stop hurting the earth.  Fortunately, doing your duty also leaves more free time and extra spending money for you. 

<img alt="2006-update.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2006-update.jpg" width="700" height="456" />

picture:  Gardens along the beach in the Waterside section of Stamford, CT. Summer 2006. Do you know your responsibility if you have the privilege of living near the water?
<p>
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<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
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<entry>
   <title>GARDENING ON THE SHADY SIDE</title>
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   <published>2006-07-09T20:28:43Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best July 9, 2006, Issue 211 GARDENING ON THE SHADY SIDE Trees improve property values, reduce energy costs, provide wildlife habitat, and, perhaps best of all, shade the garden. Many think a shady yard is a...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
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      <category term="shade gardening" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
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      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
July 9, 2006, Issue 211 
<p>
<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> GARDENING ON THE SHADY SIDE</b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
<p>
Trees improve property values, reduce energy costs, provide wildlife habitat, and, perhaps best of all, shade the garden.  Many think a shady yard is a "problem".  Wrong.  Who wants to garden in the sun when it's 90F with 70% humidity?  

<img alt="garden2-650x476.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garden2-650x476.jpg" width="650" height="476" />
PICTURE: strawberries, fern, primrose, coral bells, bog rosemary, Lenten rose, johnny-jump-up, mini-hosta, and a variegated Japanese grass in a petite stoop-garden, designed for viewing up close. Stamford, CT, 2006

That shady area under your tree, now a languishing bit of moth-eaten grass and moss or, worse yet, a sterile patch of pachysandra, can be a year-round delight, and require less weeding, watering, and feeding than lawn or a full-sun garden.  Further, a shade garden can shelter some of our endangered woodland wildflowers.]]>
      <![CDATA[<img alt="PARTRIDGEBERRY650X378.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/PARTRIDGEBERRY650X378.jpg" width="650" height="378" />
PICTURE: Partridgeberries with birch leaves and an acorn cap, Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford, CT, 2005
<P>
<strong>CREATING A SHADE GARDEN: STEP-BY-STEP

GETTING STARTED </strong>

<strong>Make a border.</strong> A distinct border between garden and lawn makes a difference.  So, the first step is to establish the garden's edge.  Use a hose or rope as a temporary border, to be replaced with bricks, trenching or the like.  

Since some garden groundcovers can spread into the lawn, consider a shallow root barrier (no more than 2" to 3" deep -- more could interfere the tree's roots) or a mulch or stone border 6" to 12" wide. 

<strong>Paint the fence.</strong> If your garden abuts a fence or wall, white or a light color will reflect light on the plants, and help the plants show up visually.  Changes in adjoining walls and fences are best made now. 

Add objects and paths.  For a natural look, start with some medium to large rocks for visual focus and winter interest.  The garden also needs stepping stones or pathways for access to any part of the garden more than 2 ½ feet from the border; otherwise, you'll end up regularly stepping on the garden and compacting the soil.  

<strong>Cut the weeds and spread the mulch.  </strong>We used to start a garden by digging down a foot or two, adding peat, etc.  Agricultural science has found that less labor is actually better.  The soil contains countless seeds and countless beneficial soil critters.  Disturbing the soil opens the seed bank, encouraging the weeds, and interferes with the helpful micro-critters.  Today, the best practice is to spread mulch, such as wood chips or compost, on top and let the earthworms and other 'tiny gardeners" do the work. 

If you're replacing pachysandra, invasive English ivy, euonymus or vinca with something more interesting, and, hopefully, eco-friendly, you will have to pull the old plants up, trying to get as much of the root as possible (while disturbing tree roots as little as possible).  Many existing weeds can be simply cut to the ground once or twice.  Grass will compost itself, if mulched over. 

<strong>Guard the tree roots.</strong> The tree's roots go all the way out to the tree's "drip line" (edge of the leaf canopy).  If possible, let the new garden cover this entire area so the tree roots get the benefit of the garden mulch and protection from foot and machine traffic.  Under a tree, the mulch layer should be no more than 2" to 3" -- a thicker layer can smoother the roots.  

<strong>Save the good stuff.</strong> Don't over-clear the ground.  Some hardy, useful native and naturalized plants may have already established themselves in your garden-to-be.  For example, you may already have wild violets, mosses, ferns, wood asters, and cinquefoil. 

<img alt="STRAWBERRY650X341.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/STRAWBERRY650X341.jpg" width="650" height="341" />
PICTURE: Ornamental pink alpine strawberries mixed with the leaves of the common blue violet. Stamford, Ct, 2006
<P>
<strong>LET THE PLANTING BEGIN </strong>

<strong>Use small plants.</strong> Under a tree, use starter plants from flats or 3" to 5" pots, remove excess soil, and dig the smallest possible hole, using a slim bulb towel.  Gradually add plants, a few this fall, a few in early and mid-spring, some next fall, etc.  As the plants spread, their roots will gently mingle with the tree's roots.  You can safely dig a few larger holes for accent plants but be careful that you're not disturbing more than a small percent of the tree's roots each year. 

<strong>Choose perennials.</strong> Correctly-selected perennials require less weeding, water, and feeding than lawn and many annuals.  Further, most perennials can be divided frequently, so you can inexpensively convert some lawn to garden each year.  

<strong>When to plant</strong>.  Most perennials, except bulbs, can be planted spring or fall.  Fall planting gives the plants the best start next spring, unless we have a harsh winter.  Spring planting avoids the risk of winter-kill, but the later you plant, the more vulnerable the plants are to summer heat and drought.  Consider planting some things in the fall and some in the spring.  The riskiest planting time is July and August.

<strong>New garden care:  </strong> New perennials need to be watered during dry spells their first and second year.  Also, you'll also have more weeds to contend with the first year since the soil has been disturbed.  
<HR>
<strong>CHOOSING THE PLANTS </strong>

<strong>Design considerations.</strong>

•	Light-colored leaves and pastel flowers glow in shade but need some darker-colored foliage for contrast.  

•	Get as much all-season color as possible from contrasting foliage.  Hybrid shade plants have foliage color from bluish-green and maroon to silver and lime-yellow. 

•	The majority of the planting can be a low-growing groundcover tapestry consisting of at least 3 foliage colors, with a few larger plants and rocks.

<strong>Read the plant labels. </strong> Most plants come with informative labels, so shop with your reading glasses handy. 

•	Many perennials bloom "All Season" or "Mid-Summer to Fall", so skip the short bloomers (e.g "Late May") unless you love the plant or it has great foliage. 

•	Plants labeled for "Sun or Part Shade" are best bets for spaces that gets at least 4 hours sun; for spaces without direct sun from 11:00 to 2:00, get "Shade" and "Woodland" plants. 

•	Unless your soil's naturally damp, pick plants for "medium to dry". 

<img alt="AJUGA-AND650X371.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/AJUGA-AND650X371.jpg" width="650" height="371" />
PICTURE: variegated ajuga, field daisies, ornamental strawberries, columbine, coral bells, saxifrage, creeping jenny, common blue violets, and john-jump-ups cover the roots of a locust tree.  Stamford, Ct, 2006
<HR>
<strong>THE PLANTS: LOW GROUNDCOVERS</strong>   
The right mix of low groundcovers looks good early spring to late fall and, in Zone 6 at least, often hold their leaves most of the winter in a sheltered spot.  Once established, these spreading perennials are hardy, care-free, and choke out most of the weeds.  While the contrasting foliage is more than enough to satisfy the eye, each plant will bloom in its season.  For early spring color, under-plant with miniature spring bulbs.

There are dozens of low growing plants usable as groundcover, many of them "steppables".  They are a fun to collect over the years from fellow gardeners and the late-summer sale tables at the nurseries. The plants listed here are essentials for getting started.  

<strong>The strawberry clan:</strong>  Strawberries and their cinquefoil cousins, with their semi-evergreen leaves, deserve special mention.  In Stamford, the flowering plant mostly likely to start first in spring and end last in late fall is the pink ornamental strawberry (<em>Fragaria</em> 'Pink Panda' or F. 'Lipstick'), a non-native, non-invasive alpine hybrid.  The plant spreads quickly and the dark green foliage is a good contrast for variegated or light-colored plants.   

Next, in late spring, buy a flat of cultivated strawberries , (e.g., <em>Fragaria × ananassa</em>), and scatter the plants around your new garden.  You won't get a lot of eating strawberries but the white flowers and glossy foliage are lovely, and your wild critters will appreciate the berries.  

If you scour the neighborhood, you should also be able find several of our native and naturalized yellow-flowering strawberry relatives, mostly cinquefoils, and the lovely naturalized yellow-flowering, non-edible strawberry (Indian Strawberry)(<em>Duchesnea indica</em>), considered a lawn weed, but wonderful in its place. 

<strong>Violets and violas (pansies): </strong>According to the Connecticut Botanical Society, we have over a dozen local violets.  The common blue violet (<em>Viola sororia</em>), often seen in lawns, has blue-purple, white or bi-colored flowers in late spring.  The extremely attractive heart-shaped leaves will feed your bunnies, so they don't eat the rest of the garden.  Over time, the common blue violet will self-seed a bit too much, so once or twice a year, you'll need to edit your violet-wealth.  

Johnny-jump-ups (<em>viola cornuta; v. viola tricolor,</em> etc. ) are the familiar, self-seeding, small-faced European that has naturalized here.  Plant a few in the spring and let them roam where they wish.  The pansy, developed from the johnny-jump-up, is a bi-annual in Zone 6 with sufficient protection from summer sun and winter cold -- prefect to make the early- and late-season garden sparkle.  

<strong>Woodland groundcovers</strong>:  If you want to do as Mother Nature does, what she most commonly puts under the trees in Stamford woods is a mix of moss, wild grasses, ferns, Canada mayflower (<em>Maianthemum canadense</em>), and partridgeberry (<em>Mitchella repens</em>), with a bit of wintergreen (<em>Gaultheria procumbens</em>).  The mayflower has white foamy flowers in mid-spring; the partridgeberry and wintergreen are evergreens with red berries.  Mother Nature might add some woodbine (Virginia Creeper) (<em>Parthenocissus quinquefolia</em>); in the shade this vine does not get out hand.  Mother Nature will also throw in some delightful, short-lived, toadstools and other fungi; these will appear naturally in your garden from time-to-time.  

<strong>Woodland wildflowers:</strong>  Many of our rare wildflowers, such as blood root (<em>Sanguinaria Canadensis</em>), rue anemone (<em>Anemonella thalictroides</em>), hepatica (<em>Hepatica americana</em>) , wild ginger (Asar<em>um canadense</em>), and squirrel corn (Dutchman's breeches) (<em>Dicentra canadensis</em>) can be purchased from reputable growers who do NOT collect from the wild.  These rare plants can be pricey so consider adding only a few a year.

The not-so-rare but equal lovely spring beauties (<em>Claytonia virginica</em>) and trout lilies (dog-tooth violets) (<em>Erythronium americanum</em>) can be planted in fall along with other spring-blooming bulbs.  Also, fairly common in garden centers is our lovely native red-flowering, self-seeding columbine (<em>Aquilegia canadensis</em>) and several of our native violets.

<strong>Mosses:</strong> We are blessed with many native mosses.  The best way to get mosses fully adapted to your moisture, light and PH is the let them come on their own.  Make small patches of mixed sand and peat, and keep the patches moist and clear of other plants for a year or so.  You can help Mother Nature along by adding shredded pieces of dried local moss. (For more on moss, see <a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/great_american_perennials/moss/">Issue 42</a>)

<img alt="XMAS-FERN650X331.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/XMAS-FERN650X331.jpg" width="650" height="331" />
PICTURE: Christmas fern, Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford, Ct, 2005
<HR>
<strong>THE PLANTS:  TALLER ACCENT PLANTS</strong>
<strong>Ferns:</strong>  What's a woodland garden without ferns?  The best native Stamford ferns for the small shade garden are the New York (Thelypteris noveboracensis), sensitive (Onoclea sensibilis), lady (Athyrium filix-femina), and Christmas (Polystichum acrostichoides).  If you have space, say at the back where you want to hide dying daffodil foliage, the taller local ferns include the royal (Osmunda regalis), cinnamon, (Osmunda cinnamomea), interrupted (Osmunda claytoniana), bracken (Pteridium aquilinum), and hay-scented (Dennstaedtia punctilobula).

<strong>Grasses:</strong> Clumps of wispy grass adds contrasting color, texture, and graceful movement.  Look for grasses label for shade such as those in the acorus (sweet flag) and carex (sedge) families.  If the grass tends to be a spreader, confine it with a root barrier. 

<strong>Native flowering plants:  </strong>Consider bleeding heart (e.g native Dicentra eximia), variegated Solomon's seals (Polygonatum commutatum), and the trilliums (e.g. Trillium grandiflorum) for spring.  For summer, the native cranesbill (Geranium maculatum) and its cousin, the Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum) are great; look for the long-blooming cranesbill hybrids.  For late summer and fall, there are too many native asters and goldenrods to list.  Look for the dwarf hybrids for shade. Most asters and goldenrod benefit from being sheared to 6" - 8" in June.

<strong>Native Shrubs:  </strong>Bog rosemary (Andromeda polifolia) is threatened in the wild but, fortunately, it is readily available in our garden centers; the blue-green heather-like foliage and small pink flowers make it an ideal mixer for the woodland garden.  Evergreen mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) is Connecticut's state flower -- look for the dwarf hybrids.  Our native azaleas (e.g. Rhododendron periclymenoides) can get a bit large, so place them in the back or choose dwarf hybrids.  Low bush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) has wonderful fall color as well as lovely tiny white flowers, and, of course, the berries, which your birds will love.  Lastly, don't forget our most common woodland shrub, the maple-leaf viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium). (For more on native shrubs, see <a href=" http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/great_american_trees_and_shrubs/native_shrubs_generally/">Issue 192</a>)

<img alt="primrose yellow.JPG" src="http://inmygarden.bubbanfriends.org/archives/primrose yellow.JPG" width="409" height="346" border="0" />
PICTURE:  In early spring, buy a primrose or two for about $5. Keep moist using de-chlorinated water; when they stop blooming, plant them outside in your shade garden.  In Zone 6, they'll last through all but the worst wnters and spread enough to require transplanting every few years. 

<HR>
<strong>Non-natives: </strong>There are many non-native, non-invasive plants also worthy of mention.  When it comes to the hostas, coral bells, and astilbe, get the dwarf or miniature varieties.  In all categories, look for the hybrids with striking foliage color. 

•	ajuga (Ajuga reptans)
•	moneywort (creeping jenny) (Lysimachia nummularia)
•	mazus (mazus reptans, m. radicans) .
•	primrose (primula)  
•	forget-me-not (e.g. Myosotis scorpioides)
•	leadwort (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides)
•	Christmas rose (Helleborus) 
•	coral bells (Heuchera).
•	plantain lily (Hostas) 
•	astilbe (e.g. Astilbe chinensis)
•	harebells (Campanulas) 
•	hardy begonias (Begonia grandis) 
•	perennial forget-me-not (Brunnera macrophylla)
•	Japanese anemones (Anemone X hybrida)
•	Turk's-cap Lily(Lilium superbum) 
<HR>
<strong>No room for a full-sized shade Garden? Make a natural nook:</strong> You only need a tiny patch that doesn't get mid-day sun next to the fence or behind a bush. Combine a couple of mid-sized rocks, a tallish fern or filmy grass, a low-bush blueberry, spring bulbs, and a fall woodland aster.  Let the moss glow in winter under the aster's seed heads and the dried ferns or grass. 

<HR>
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<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
© Sue Sweeney 2006</FONT SIZE="-2">
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<entry>
   <title>THE BEST PLANT PESTICIDES ARE:  NONE</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/06/the_best_plant_pesticides_are.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.408</id>
   
   <published>2006-06-24T15:54:46Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best June 25, 2005, Issue 210 THE BEST PLANT PESTICIDES ARE: NONE SUMMARY: There is no ethical justification for the use of pesticides, &quot;natural&quot; or otherwise, to make pretty flowers or velvety lawns. Further, pesticides, long-term,...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="houseplants: pests" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
      <category term="pest control (or not)" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
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      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
June 25, 2005, Issue 210 
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<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> THE BEST PLANT PESTICIDES ARE:  NONE</b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
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<b> SUMMARY: There is no ethical justification for the use of pesticides, "natural" or otherwise, to make pretty flowers or velvety lawns.   Further,  pesticides, long-term, are not effective insect controls.  Instead, learn good cultural practices, and foster nature's defense which include predator bugs.</b>


A reader of <b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b> wrote "I just recently had a orchid house built.  Could you advise me how to get rid of the mealy bugs and scale?  Is there a automatic system that can take care of this and what chemical do I use to get this under control?"

<img alt="LADYBUG-HUNTING650X448.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/LADYBUG-HUNTING650X448.jpg" width="650" height="354" />
Picture: Ladybug on patrol at Southfield Park, Stamford CT June 2006.

Dear Reader:  I can see that you're learning, like the rest of us, and I hope this will help you protect your health and that of your children, pets, and plants: 

I don't use chemicals to kill plant bugs and urge others to refrain from doing so as well.  Bugs are all-natural (albeit sometimes not native) and fully bio-degradable, never cause cancer, and are seldom poisonous.  Unfortunately, the same can not be said for pesticides ("cides" to readers of <b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b>).  

The 'cides are dangerous because (1) they kill stuff, (2) they are not fully tested to make sure that they only kill what they are intended to kill, and (3) what testing is done assumes that the user is perfectly following an unrealistic set of directions under ideal working conditions.]]>
      <![CDATA[The sad truth is that Science doesn't know how to test chemicals for environmental and human safety.  Whether we're talking about a pesticide for the lawn, a "miracle" drug for headaches, a fire retardant for clothing, or an additive for gasoline, the current state-of-the-art is such that there is no way to fully test new chemicals at a commercially reasonable cost and in a commercially reasonable time under real-world conditions, including interactions between substances, realistic user practices, and long-term residual effects.  Then, when we get cancer, asthma, Parkinson's, and mysterious "fatigues", the scientists say that there are so many chemicals in the environment, that there is no way they can tell which one (if any) is causing the problem, so none are to blame.  To me, this is totally insanity, so why contribute to it by buying the stuff in the first place?

I believe that it is bad for the planet, and all those on it, to release these dangerous chemicals under any circumstances, and that there is no ethical way to justify their use to make pretty flowers or velvety lawns. My view also applies to items labeled "natural" and "organic".  Don't be fooled;  "natural" doesn't make the substance safe if the substance kills stuff.

Further, long term, even if they didn't have side effects,'cides, "natural" or otherwise,  just breed a bigger problem.  It's like antibiotics-- the more they are used, the more the target organism becomes immune.  Likewise, the more they are used, the more that nature's defenses shut down.  For bugs, nature's defense are two fold: healthy plants and healthy bug-predators.

The best way, I think, to control plant pests is by raising healthy plants that fight the pests off on their own.  The first sign of an insect pest should be a welcome message to you from the plant that it is not fully happy and needs more (or less) heat, water, circulating air, humidity, light, better potting, nutrients, etc.  Don’t kill the messenger - read the message. 

Indoors, where you don’t have the benefit of insect predators and natural rain showers, the best way to control pests on houseplants, including orchids, is the tried-and-true weekly shower-bath under the sink faucet.  Indoors, a weekly inspection to catch an infection early is also very important.  

Indoors, if you have a specific infection, isolate the sick plants and wash them well, with sponge, every 3 days (as the new eggs hatch) for a few weeks.  Some people use rubbing alcohol or insecticidal soap.  Plain dish washing soap is also OK.  In all cases, wash the residue off the plants and don't breathe the insecticidal soap fumes -- use a mask.  If a house plant or orchid is badly infected, it is very sick.  Consider tossing it, since even if you do "cure" it of the bugs with a lot of hand labor, and figure out what made the platnt sick in the first place, it may take years for it to recover its health enough to bloom. 

Outdoors, and in the greenhouse, you can also enlist ladybugs and other beneficial predator insects to help you.  There are many of these helpful critters around.  Indeed, while we have our birds, and toads, and such, the chief killer of bugs is other bugs.  Unfortunately, 'cides kill off the predator bugs as well as their prey.  Even more unfortunately since the natural balance is fewer predators than prey, every use of pesticides, over time, results in a larger prey population with fewer predators to control the prey.  

You can buy some beneficial insects like lady-bugs and lace wings.  However,  you can also encourage your own by providing pollen for when there are no bugs to eat, a fresh water source, and habitat.  For some reason, predator bugs are especially fond of white and yellow flowers like Queen Anne's Lace and yarrow.  Habitat is best created by variety and by not over-cleaning and sterilizing the garden.  See <a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2005/06/ecoeasy_mulchin.html">Issue 170, "ECO-EASY: MULCHING IN PLACE"</a>

<img alt="ladybug--CATALPA650X226.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/ladybug--CATALPA650X226.jpg" width="650" height="226" />
Picture: Ladybug inspecting a catalpa leaf for mealy bugs, Scalzi Park, Stamford CT,  June 2006.  
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<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
© Sue Sweeney 2006</FONT SIZE="-2">
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</entry>

<entry>
   <title>THE MILL RIVER: SUMMER FLORA</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/06/the_mill_river_summer_flora.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.407</id>
   
   <published>2006-06-18T20:49:32Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best June 18, 2006, Issue 209 THE MILL RIVER: SUMMER FLORA - JUNE This week, to celebrate the official beginning of summer, is a virtual walk along the Mill River, featuring native and naturalized flora, many...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="The Mill River: Flora -Summer" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.themondaygarden.com/">
      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
June 18, 2006, Issue 209
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<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> THE MILL RIVER: SUMMER FLORA - JUNE </b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
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This week, to celebrate the official beginning of summer, is a virtual walk along the Mill River, featuring native and naturalized flora, many of which would also be good for your garden.  The walk is divided into three parts by month; then the plants are grouped by environment, starting with the flora of the upland woods, then favorites from the part-shade and sun of the river-side and swamp, and finally the jewels of the open meadow.
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<b>JUNE: UPLAND WOODS</b>
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<img alt="TULIP-TREE-650X464.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/TULIP-TREE-650X464.jpg" width="650" height="464" />
PICTURE:  Look up to see the wonderful, water lily-like flowers of the majestic tulip tree, found in our upland woods, and in many a back yard. Strawberry Hill, Stamford, CT June 2005]]>
      <![CDATA[<img alt="MAPLE-LEAF-VIB-650X456.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/MAPLE-LEAF-VIB-650X456.jpg" width="650" height="456" />
PICTURE:  A maple-leaf viburnum, with friend, just about to burst into bloom in the full shade of the upland woods, the Bartlett Arboretum,  Stamford, CT June 2005
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<img alt="CAT-BRIAR-650X436.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CAT-BRIAR-650X436.jpg" width="650" height="436" />
PICTURE:  A cat briar vine in flower at the Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT June 2005
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<img alt="MULBERRY-650X457.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/MULBERRY-650X457.jpg" width="650" height="457" />
PICTURE:  mulberry (edge-of-forest) Downtown Stamford, CT June 2005
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<img alt="RASPBERRY650X437.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/RASPBERRY650X437.jpg" width="650" height="437" />
PICTURE:  Black raspberry (edge-of-forest), Downtown Stamford, CT June 2004
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<p>
<b>JUNE: RIVERSIDE AND SWAMP</b>
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<img alt="ARROWWOOD650X451.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/ARROWWOOD650X451.jpg" width="650" height="451" />
PICTURE:  Arrowwood viburnum, the Bartlett Arboretum Stamford, CT June 2005
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<img alt="CORNUS-SILKY650X429.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CORNUS-SILKY650X429.jpg" width="650" height="429" />
PICTURE:  Silky dogwood (cornus), the Mill River riverwalk at Scalzi Park, Stamford, CT June 2005
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<img alt="ELDERBERRY650X434.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/ELDERBERRY650X434.jpg" width="650" height="434" />
PICTURE:  elderberry, the Mill River riverwalk at Scalzi Park, Stamford, CT June 2005
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<img alt="WINTERBERRY-ILEX650X347.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/WINTERBERRY-ILEX650X347.jpg" width="650" height="347" />
PICTURE:  Winterberry, the deciduous holly, the Bartlett Arboretum Stamford, CT June 2006
<p>
<img alt="IRIS-SLZ-650X464.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/IRIS-SLZ-650X464.jpg" width="650" height="464" />
PICTURE:  Yellow Iris (naturalized - possibly invasive), the Mill River riverwalk at Scalzi Park, Stamford, CT June 2005
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<img alt="MILKWEED-650X453.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/MILKWEED-650X453.jpg" width="650" height="453" />
PICTURE:  Common milkweed flower buds, the Mill River riverwalk at Scalzi Park, Stamford, CT June 2005
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<p>
<b>JUNE: OPEN MEADOW</b>
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<img alt="BLUE-EYED-GRASS-650X452.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/BLUE-EYED-GRASS-650X452.jpg" width="650" height="452" />
PICTURE:  Blue-eyed grass ( iris-relative) Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT June 2005
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<img alt="CINQUEFOIL-650X457.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CINQUEFOIL-650X457.jpg" width="650" height="457" />
PICTURE:  Cinquefoil, (strawberry relative) Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT June 2006
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<img alt="YARROW-650X460.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/YARROW-650X460.jpg" width="650" height="460" />
PICTURE:  yarrow, Downtown Stamford, CT June 2006
<p>

<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red">CLICK HERE FOR <b><a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2005/06/post_1.html">THE MILL RIVER: SUMMER FLORA - JULY</a></b></FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"></CENTER>

<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red">CLICK HERE FOR <b><a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2005/05/the_mill_river_2.html">THE MILL RIVER: SUMMER FLORA - AUGUST</a></b></FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"></CENTER>

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<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
© Sue Sweeney 2006</FONT SIZE="-2">
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<entry>
   <title>GARLIC MUSTARD: THE INVADER&apos;S EDGE</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/06/garlic_mustard_the_invaders_ed_2.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.406</id>
   
   <published>2006-06-04T17:46:46Z</published>
   <updated>2007-05-19T13:57:01Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best June 4, 2006, Issue 208 this article updates and replaces Issue 54. GARLIC MUSTARD: THE INVADER&#39;S EDGE NEWS FLASH: MAY 2007: BEST WAY TO CONTROL: Cut the flower steams to ground (not half way up),...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="garlic mustard" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
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      <![CDATA[<font size="+1"><strong><em>TheMondayGarden.com</em></strong></font>, <em>Eco-gardening at its best</em> <p>June 4, 2006, Issue 208 this article updates and replaces Issue 54. </p><font size="+2" color="#ff0000"><strong>GARLIC MUSTARD: THE INVADER&#39;S EDGE</strong></font> <p>NEWS FLASH: MAY 2007: BEST WAY TO CONTROL: Cut the flower steams to ground (not half way up), once the flower blooms. You have a 90% chance new flower stem will not re-grow.&nbsp; Black bag&nbsp; the cut stems and leave in the sun to sterilize.&nbsp; Ignore the plants -- a &nbsp;large percent of the first year seedlings will die on their own.&nbsp; The plant is bi-annual so second year plants will also die on their own.&nbsp; By&nbsp;not pulling up&nbsp;the plants, and not disturbing the ground, you have best chance of of not encouraging more seedlings of this and other invasives. END NEWS FLASH.</p><p>Invasive critters, like the Asian Longhorn beetle, can sneak in the country uninvited. However, foreign plants generally need to entice humans into importing them. In the case of garlic mustard (<em>Alliaria petiolata</em>), early European immigrants valued this biennial member of the mustard family because it tastes, well, like garlic. Adding to its assets, garlic mustard is high in vitamins A and C, and only too easy to grow in moist part-shade (e.g. most of our forest understory, shaded roadsides and hedge-rows.). As an evergreen, it is readily available in fresh form all winter, which was a particularly good thing before supermarkets. While there is no direct proof, it is believed that garlic mustard came into North America with the European settlers. There are records of it here in the 1800&#39;s. <img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-rabbit700x46.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-rabbit700x46.jpg" width="700" height="465" /> Picture: A cotton-tailed rabbit surrounded by invasive garlic mustard, mugwort, and burdock, none of which are food to him. If this is what&#39;s left of the wild, what&#39;s he supposed to eat? Meanwhile, the lack of predators gives the invasives a competitive advantage over the rabbit&#39;s proper native food. Cummings Park, Stamford, CT June 2006. But being likable isnï¿½t enough to get the title &quot;invader&quot;; being likable by humans just gets a human to put you in the garden. Being &quot;weedy&quot; or &quot;aggressive&quot; in the garden isn&#39;t enough, either - that just gets you pulled up. To be invasive, the plant has to be able to escape the garden on its own, spread fairly quickly over a wide area, and beat out the local, wild competition by hogging the light, water, nutrients, and space. Garlic mustard is good at this. Garlic mustard has already infested all the USA except the southern border where it is too hot for the garlic mustard&#39;s seeds to germinate. Also, parts of the Northwest are still free of garlic mustard. The plant is also a pest in Southern Canada. It has the distinction of making the noxious weed list in 45 states at last count. Unfortunately, garlic mustardï¿½s direct competitors include our beloved woodland wildflower flowers such as spring beauty, wild ginger, bloodroot, toothwort (wild, native mustards), Dutchman&#39;s breeches, hepatica, and trillium.</p>]]>
      <![CDATA[<img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-second-yr700.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-second-yr700.jpg" width="700" height="464" /> Picture: Second-year garlic mustard in bloom April 2006. Downtown Stamford CT. The red bug is an invasive European lily leaf beetle, lurking in the garlic mustard which is near some lilies. These beetles are harmful and should be hand-picked and destroyed. <strong>No predators: </strong>Even more unfortunately, part of the &quot;invaders&#39; edge&quot; is the lack of predators. Garlic mustard, for example, has no known, significant local predators. Our insects won&#39;t eat it; even the white-tailed deer leave it alone unless they are desperate. By comparison, in its native Europe, some 60 or 70 insects eat garlic mustard, including some that don&#39;t seem to eat anything else. The local fauna doesn&#39;t tend to recognize the invader&#39;s leaves and roots as food, so the invader doesn&#39;t get munched up as often as the native plants. This gives the invader a competitive edge over the natives. As the invader pushes out the native plants, the native plant-eaters decline, and so do the birds, frogs, and other critters that feed on the plant-eaters. Our local plants have co-evolved with the local fauna and they are mutually dependent. It is said that when a single native plant species dies out, up to 30 other plants and animals may be adversely affected. <table border="0"><tbody><tr><td><img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-winter353x35.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-winter353x35.jpg" width="353" height="350" /></td><td><img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-leaf-338x350.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-leaf-338x350.jpg" width="338" height="350" /></td></tr></tbody></table>Pictures (above): Winter view of garlic mustard leaves, Jan 2003, Bedford Street, and a close up of the leaf texture and veins, December, 2005 Scalzi Park. Both Stamford CT. <table border="0"><tbody><tr><td><img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-leaf504x350.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-leaf504x350.jpg" width="504" height="350" /></td><td><img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-flower197x35.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-flower197x35.jpg" width="197" height="350" /></td></tr></tbody></table>Pictures: close up of new, first-year leaves; second -year garlic mustard in flower. Stamford, CT 2004 <strong>How does it do it? The botany: </strong>Garlic mustard seedlings get their heads up early enough in spring to shade out the later-rising native plants. Thus, the garlic mustard seedlings get off to a good start, untroubled by competing seedlings or leaf-munching pests. By summer, the young plants form low circlets of leaves, known as &quot;basel rosettes&quot;. The leaves are kidney shaped with a scalloped edge and a &quot;quilted&quot; texture. The leaves start out a pale, fresh green but darken with age. When new, the crushed leaves smell distinctly like garlic but this scent fades away by fall. The tap root doesn&#39;t grow straight down, it has a hooked shape or an &quot;S&quot;-shaped curve to it. The young plants stay green all winter, continuing to soak up the rays while the competition is dormant. The young garlic mustards stay low through the winter, taking advantage of the insulating snow, warmth of the earth, and winter sun. Then, in the second year, the plants shoot up 2ï¿½ to 3ï¿½, with clusters with white (or pink) 4-petal, cross-shaped flowers in May. The bolting garlic mustard has so much stored energy that if you pull up a flowering plant, and leave it in the damp shade, it still can finish making its seeds. Garlic mustard is an &quot;obligate bi-annual&quot; in that it has to go to seed in its second year, whether or not growing conditions have been favorable. By mid-June or July, the second-year garlic mustard plants have died off, leaving only the dried stems and upright, banana-shaped seed pods characteristic of the mustard family. <img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-dying700x395.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-dying700x395.jpg" width="700" height="395" /> Picture: Second -year garlic mustard already in seed and starting to die. Hoyt Street Alley, Stamford, CT June 2006. <table border="0"><tbody><tr><td><img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-dying359x350.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-dying359x350.jpg" width="359" height="350" /></td><td><img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-seed343x350.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-seed343x350.jpg" width="343" height="350" /></td></tr></tbody></table>Picture: Additional view of second -year garlic mustard already in seed and starting to die; close up of seeds. Hoyt Street Alley, Stamford, CT June 2006 <strong>How it spreads:</strong> Curiously, the experts arenï¿½t sure how garlic mustard spreads. They know you canï¿½t blame it on the birds or the wind. Each plant makes hundreds of seeds that remain viable for years in the soil&#39;s &quot;seed bank&quot;. However, the seeds fall close to the parent, and none of our fauna eat the seeds, so it in not spread to other locations via droppings. It is known that garlic mustard is self-fertilizing so even if only one seed germinates, it can start a whole colony (or repopulate the colony that you just ripped out). It is also know that the seeds only do well in disturbed soil. Left undisturbed in a shaded forest, the garlic mustard population will reach a low-level equilibrium. However, should the surrounding ground be disturbed by, for example, ripping out a neighboring invasive plant, it&#39;s &quot;Molly, bar the door&quot;. It is believed that culprits in spreading garlic mustard are humans and the white-tailed deer (that, in turn, have enhanced populations due to human activity). Both humans and deer help garlic mustard by disturbing ground along the forest&#39;s edge and the paths, allowing the garlic mustard to then take over. But how does garlic mustard move from site to site? Best guess is that the seeds cling to the fur, clothing, and tires of passing animal and human traffic. It is also believes that flood waters significantly spread the seeds, even though the seeds donï¿½t float well. <table border="0"><tbody><tr><td><img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-pulled312x35.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-pulled312x35.jpg" width="312" height="350" /></td><td><img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-root354x350.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-root354x350.jpg" width="354" height="350" /></td></tr></tbody></table>Pictures: Pulled garlic mustard plant, just about to flower in its second year; detail of its thick, energy-storing, hook-shaped root. If left along the trail in moist shade this plant could still flower and seed. Bartlett Arboretum, May 2006, Stamford CT. <strong>Chemical Warfare: </strong>What we&#39;re also finding out more and more about only too many invasive plants is that their arsenals include allelopathic (herbicidal) chemicals that inhibit the growth of other plants. In the case of garlic mustard, tests are showing that garlic mustard engages in, not one, but TWO forms of chemical warfare. First, is the straight forward, kill some of your neighbors with herbicidal chemicals that keep them from growing. Second, and much more scary, is that studies are showing that garlic mustard may interfere with mycorrhizal activity in native plants, including our precious hardwoods, leading the decline of the entire forest. Translated into English: There are tiny soil fungi that form a symbiotic (interdependent relationship) with certain plants. The fungi attach to the plants&#39; roots and help the roots absorb nutrients from the soil; the plant, in turn, feeds the fungi what they need. Many plants die without their specific fungi and visa versa. Our native trees and shrubs are mostly mycorrhizal-dependent. However, garlic mustard, and many other invasive or weedy plants, donï¿½t depend on root fungi. Studies have shown that mycorrhizal-dependent plants go into serious decline when planted near garlic mustard. Some say that the studies are not definitive. This is probably true; what&#39;s shocking to the lay person is just how little is actually known about the activity of the plants in our forests, natural or otherwise. <strong>Who stole the trillium?</strong> Anyone wandering the woods around here who&#39;s over the age of 40 can see with their own eyes that our precious woodland wildflowers of yesteryear are mostly gone. We still are blessed with spring beauties, trout lilies, toothwort, and a few other but so many plants -- lady slippers, trillium, hepatica, ginger, blood root, etc., are getting harder and harder to find, even in woods not overly used for humans recreation. Why? Some say it&#39;s the Norway maples. You have seen how their thick roots and dense shade kill your lawn; they do the same thing to the forest under-story. I&#39;m sure that they are part of the problem; but there are fewer wildflowers even in Norway maple-free areas. Some say it&#39;s the white-tailed deer, eating everything is sight as they are driven into smaller and smaller areas by encroaching condos and McMansions. I&#39;m sure that the deer are also part of the problem since the missing plants tend to be those which have a harder time getting started and are easily damaged. But I find some grasses and other edibles still left in the forest -- it&#39;s not stripped bare (yet). So could garlic mustard be playing a role in not only killing off the woody perennials (trees and shrubs) that <em>are</em> the forest, but also in the disappearance of the wildflowers? <strong>Getting rid of garlic mustard:</strong> There are similar-looking native plants, so first, get to know what the plant looks like. In spring and summer, check a crushed leaf for the tell-tale garlicky smell; year-round you can also check the first plant you pull for the hook in the tap root. Don&#39;t confuse the leaf with your local violets. Like all invasives and weedy plants, it is best to stay ahead of the curve. Any time that you see a few of a plant that doesn&#39;t belong, that&#39;s the time to root it out. What tends to happen, and this is true of garlic mustard, is a small, seemingly-innocuous colony will form and appear stable for a few years. What is happening, though, is that the colony is establishing giant seed bank in the soil, waiting for an optimal year when the weather is right and the soil has been disturbed, by say, removing another invasive species or the creating of a new path. Then, the colony suddenly explodes to the point where hand removal becomes an overwhelmingly huge task. People then start to get tempted by plant-killer chemicals which could, of course, kill any surviving desirable plants and potentially cause cancer or other disease in the fauna (including the humans!). <img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-seedlings700.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-seedlings700.jpg" width="700" height="373" /> Picture: First -year garlic mustard seedlings on the forest floor, Mill River bank near Cloonan, Stamford, CT June 2006 <strong>Know the enemy:</strong> Remember that garlic mustard is a biannual. The eradication strategy should follow the plant&#39;s growth cycle. <strong>The first-year basal rosettes</strong> can be easily hand pulled, and the removal work can be carried out any time that the ground isn&#39;t frozen. Pull gently and tamp the earth back down immediately to minimize soil disturbance. However, no matter how careful you are, pulling the plant up will disturb the earth to some degree and reopen the seed bank, so continued vigilance and, for large areas, over-planting of desired plants is recommended. <strong>Over-planting:</strong> Where the anti-invasive movement needs to improve is in identifying the best plants for over-planting areas cleared of invasives and getting this information out to the public. One published garlic mustard study showed that jewelweed and box elder seedlings bested the garlic mustard seedlings. Box elder, a native maple, can get a bit weedy itself, so won&#39;t be everyone&#39;s first choice. Jewelweed, though, has interesting possibilities. It is a native annual that the deer will eat when hungry. It thrives in moist shade, so the seeds are often available in large quantities near areas where we&#39;re likely to be pulling out garlic mustard. Someone, please try this and write in about the results. <strong>Second-year plants</strong> should also be (carefully) pulled up until they start to flower. At this point, the plant can be cut to the ground, instead, thus lessening the soil disturbance (even if a bit hard on the back). If cut all the way to the ground, once in flower, tests show that the plant has a low chance of being able to re-generate. (Caution: if only cut part way to the ground, or cut too early, the plant will come back, possibly with double or triple the flowers.) <strong>NOTE: ONCE THE PLANT HAS GONE TO SEED, PULLING UP THE DYING PLANT AND THROWING IT NEXT TO THE TRAIL HELPS IT SPREAD!!!!! Don&#39;t do this, tempting as it is.</strong> The plant has already reached the end of its life cycle, so pulling it up only disturbs the earth and propels the seeds over a larger area than they could have achieved on their own. Instead, the seeded plant should be cut to the ground as gently as possible so as to keep the seeds intact for bagging. By this stage, it might be the best use of resources to leave the seeded adults alone and concentrate efforts on protecting the earth from disturbance and on the pulling the baby rosettes which will create seeds next year. All roots and all adult plants should be placed in a black plastic bag in the sun to sterilize. (Since this it what it takes to kill the stuff, you can see why garlic mustard is winning). Throwing the roots and seeds in the compost or garbage, or leaving them along the trail, only compounds the problem. <img src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/garlic-mustard-first-yr700x.jpg" border="0" alt="garlic-mustard-first-yr700x.jpg" width="700" height="410" /> picture: New first year garlic mustard in the woods at Scalzi Park, Stamford CT April 2006. The plants will bloom, seed, and die next year. <strong>Alternative idea:</strong> Since humans are the most effective North American pests for garlic mustard, it has been suggested that we start eating it again. They say it makes an excellent pesto, and it is good for you. <font size="0" color="#ff0000"><strong>Caution: Never eat plants grown near a road or driveway where heavy metals from car exhausts may have poisoned the ground. Also beware of old industrial sites, and dumping sites.<strong> <p>further reading: <a href="http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/esadocs/documnts/allipet.html">The Nature Conservancy: Element Stewardship Abstract</a> <a href="http://biology.plosjournals.org/perlserv?request=get-document&amp;doi=10.1371/journal.pbio.0040140">Public Library of Science: Invasive Plant Suppresses the Growth of Native Tree Seedlings by Disrupting Belowground Mutualisms </a></p><a href="http://inmygarden.org">return to home page</a> <hr /><font size="-2">Photo credits: Sue Sweeney ï¿½ Sue Sweeney 2006</font> <hr /></strong></strong></font>]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>BUILDING THE MILL RIVER PLAYGROUND</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/05/building_the_mill_river_playgr.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.405</id>
   
   <published>2006-05-26T20:57:10Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best May 26, 2005, Issue 207-208 BUILDING THE MILL RIVER PLAYGROUND Why cover the building of a river-side playground by community volunteers on a site dedicated to the urban wilderness? Isn&apos;t it just another playground in...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="The Mill River: the Playground" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.themondaygarden.com/">
      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
May 26, 2005, Issue 207-208
<p>
<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> BUILDING THE MILL RIVER PLAYGROUND </b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
<p>

Why cover the building of a river-side playground by community volunteers on a site dedicated to the urban wilderness?   Isn't it just another playground in another park?

May be but it is our park, and it is part of the comprehensive plan for re-development of the riverside "green space".  The playground is part of the City's decision on the balancing of human and non-human uses of the riparian space and the devolvement of the surrounding neighborhoods.  The desired vision seems to be happy children growing up along a sparkling river with herons, geese, ducks, and osprey, squirrels overhead, and songbirds in the bushes.  Meanwhile, the adjacent lower- and middle-income housing and small businesses of the West Side get spruced-up but remain intact. (The new, "luxury" (i.e. high-income) residential development is planned to be farther north and east; and, years from now, to the south.)  In other words, the same neighborhood, only better, for humans and non-humans alike, plus a world-class playground for all the children of the City to visit. 
<p>
<img alt="phillips-rain700x.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/phillips-rain700x.jpg" width="700" height="367" />
Picture: On Day 5, the skies open once again. Later, I was surprised to find out that the rainfall total for the week was "only" 3 to 4 inches. May 19, 2006.
<p>
The plan was for community volunteers to dedicate 5,000 hours in one week (three shifts working 7:30 A.M. to 9:00 P.M., May 15-21, 2006) to raise a playground from a design created by outside consultants with input from area children, using mostly donated materials.  By the end of the week, somewhere over a 1000 individuals who live or work in Stamford had invested a good 8000 to 9000 hours on the site, most of it in rain and mud.  The people came from the international corporations headquartered in town, the local businesses both large and small, the schools, the religion organizations, the city government, and the neighborhood, including the men's shelter.  Many others contributed from off site.  Indeed, special thanks goes to those unseen hands who prepared our meals.  (Speaking of small, local businesses, <b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b> didn't publish last week because I was helping in the tool shed).]]>
      <![CDATA[<p>
<img alt="day7-end.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day7-end.jpg" width="700" height="332" />

Picture: At the end of the day, on Day 7, the sun breaks out for a minute over the almost finished playground.  May 21, 2006
<p>
There was a major investment of community energy in the project.  Everyone in town either had a part in the project or knows someone who did.  The result, I think, will be that, regardless of what happens with the playground itself and the surrounding neighborhood over the years, many people who live and/or work in Stamford now have an increased personal investment in the town and will be more interested in the land use issues, including the respect with which we treat the river and its flora and fauna.  
<p>
<img alt="cherrytree-north700x370.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/cherrytree-north700x370.jpg" width="700" height="370" />

Picture: the path into the playground area from the West Main Street "Ruined" Bridge, looking south toward the playground-to-be. April 25, 2006. 
<p>

Here are the pictures that record the story of this small but significant chapter in the river's history.  (Unfortunately, with 1000 people on the site, there was no way to take everyone's picture, as much as I would have liked to.)
<p>
<B>PART ONE: BEFORE THE BUILD</B>
<p>
<img alt="january-basketball700x410.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/january-basketball700x410.jpg" width="700" height="410" />
Picture:  Site of the playground-to-be, January 2006, looking north at the West Main Street " Ruined Bridge".  The popular basketball court is to be rebuilt nearby. 
<p>
<img alt="march-backhoe700x363.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/march-backhoe700x363.jpg" width="700" height="363" />
picture: Looking south toward Tresser Boulevard, March 2006.  Clearing the site required removal of the basketball court (fortunately, during the off-season) and several trees.  The trees taken down were a stand of decrepit native ash, a stand of invasive Norway maples (good riddance!) and a come-of-itself mulberry.  The one valuable tree - a lovely multi-trunk silver maple, which will provide shade for at least the next generation - can be seen in the rear, right, already surrounded by protective orange fencing. 
<p>
<img alt="CARDINAL700x406.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CARDINAL700x406.jpg" width="700" height="406" />
Picture: On May 4, after quitting-time, a father cardinal from the neighborhood inspects the site preparation.
<p>
<img alt="bob-rob-robin-jeff-700x.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/bob-rob-robin-jeff-700x.jpg" width="700" height="379" />
Picture: May 11, checking last minute details at the site.  In the foreground are the amazing Rob and Bob, the Parks Department representatives who worked for weeks on end to make the project a success.  In the rear: Jeff, a City construction manager, who served tirelessly as one of the site captains, and Robin, our Land Use Bureau Chief, who did his best to be first-on and last-off the site every day, despite the grueling 14-hour schedule.  All told, there were somewhere between 15 and 20 key organizers.  
<p>
<img alt="day-0-milt-700x424.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-0-milt-700x424.jpg" width="700" height="377" />
Picture: Also checking the site on May 11, Milt, who is the Director for the entire Mill River Project , and Myra, who ran the on-site food service for the volunteers (Thank you!). In the background, behind Rob, are two of the "cute" Bobcat mini-backhoes. Milt vied with Robin to be first-on, last-off the site. 
<p>
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<B>PART 11: THE BUILD</B>
<p>
<img alt="day-1-c-700x342.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-1-c-700x342.jpg" width="700" height="342" />
Picture: Noon on May 15, the first day of the build. The forecast for the week is for rain. 
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-1-a-231x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-1-a-231x400.jpg" width="231" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-1-b-444x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-1-b-444x400.jpg" width="444" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day one, volunteers surviving the rain.
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-1-robin.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-1-robin.jpg" width="236" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-1-pitneybows22x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-1-pitneybows22x400.jpg" width="222" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-1-wheebarrow234x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-1-wheebarrow234x400.jpg" width="234" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day one, Robin keeps smiling, volunteers on the site.
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="milt-robin-ch12.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/milt-robin-ch12.jpg" width="303" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-1-vol.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-1-vol.jpg" width="331" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures:  Day 1: Channel 12 (local TV) interview; volunteers taking advantage of an almost dry moment.
<P>
<img alt="day-2-d-700x425.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-2-d-700x425.jpg" width="700" height="425" />
Picture: Noon on Day 2, more rain but the build goes on.
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-3-dona-218x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3-dona-218x400.jpg" width="218" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="adriana213x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/adriana213x400.jpg" width="213" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="alissa-dave231x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/alissa-dave231x400.jpg" width="231" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 2, Di in the "mess tent" making the documentary film; Adriana co-chair of the volunteer committee; Alissa from GE and Dave, a site caption. 
<p>
<img alt="day-2-robin700x447.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-2-robin700x447.jpg" width="700" height="447" />
Picture: Robin on Day 2, our first bit of dry weather. You have to wonder what he's thinking.
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="sitecpt-1.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/sitecpt-1.jpg" width="162" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="sitecpt-2.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/sitecpt-2.jpg" width="145" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="sitecpt-3.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/sitecpt-3.jpg" width="179" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="sitecpt-4.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/sitecpt-4.jpg" width="157" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures:  Some of the site captains, responsible for guiding the volunteers.
<P>
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<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-2-318x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-2-318x400.jpg" width="318" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-2-braxton179x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-2-braxton179x400.jpg" width="179" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-2-tent205-400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-2-tent205-400.jpg" width="205" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: More Day 2 volunteers. Braxton, in the center, came with his Dad.
<p>
<img alt="day3-noon700x.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day3-noon700x.jpg" width="700" height="344" />
Picture: Day 3, noon. 
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-3-carpentery295x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3-carpentery295x400.jpg" width="295" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-4-law188x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-law188x400.jpg" width="188" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-3-ktn-138x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3-ktn-138x400.jpg" width="138" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 3, in the carpentry tent; law enforcement with a big camera; helping feed the crew 
<p>
<img alt="bob-rob-2-700x426.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/bob-rob-2-700x426.jpg" width="700" height="426" />
Picture: Day 3, Bob and Rob keep on ticking
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="ellen-day3.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/ellen-day3.jpg" width="186" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="linda-day3.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/linda-day3.jpg" width="191" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="myra-day5.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/myra-day5.jpg" width="133" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="EMT219x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/EMT219x400.jpg" width="219" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures:  Ellen, working on getting us supplies, Linda, volunteer  co-chair, Myra outside the mess tent; our resident EMT who fortunately spent almost all his time helping Myra.
<P>
<TABLE><TR>
<TD><img alt="jeff249x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/jeff249x400.jpg" width="249" height="400" /> </TD><TD><img alt="day-4-pumping219x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-pumping219x400.jpg" width="219" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="milton-tool-day1-274x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/milton-tool-day1-274x400.jpg" width="274" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 3, Jeff on the site with the concrete pumpers;  the latrines get pumped, too. (Thank you!); Merritt in the tool shed 
<p>
<img alt="day-3--SHS700x344.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3--SHS700x344.jpg" width="700" height="344" />
Picture: Day 3, Stamford High volunteers raise a tent. 
<p>
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-3--paul-sylvia308.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3--paul-sylvia308.jpg" width="308" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-3-robert212.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3-robert212.jpg" width="212" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-2-trash-192x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-2-trash-192x400.jpg" width="192" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures:  Day 2-3: Paul and Sylvia; Robert in the tool shed; picking up the trash.
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-3-erin271x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3-erin271x400.jpg" width="271" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-3-saw306x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3-saw306x400.jpg" width="306" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-3-Mgroup167x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-3-Mgroup167x400.jpg" width="167" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Erin, a Senior City Planner and head of the tool shop struggles to keep the equipment clean and orderly despite the mud; volunteers on the site. 
<p>
<img alt="day-4-wright-tech700x382.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-wright-tech700x382.jpg" width="700" height="382" />
Picture: Day 4, Wright Tech volunteers spreading gravel. 
<P>
<img alt="wrighttech700x413.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/wrighttech700x413.jpg" width="700" height="413" />
Picture: Day 4, Wright Tech volunteers helping in the mess tent
<P>
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<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-4-carptry252x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-carptry252x400.jpg" width="252" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-4-citi245x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-citi245x400.jpg" width="245" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-4-thompson223x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-thompson223x400.jpg" width="223" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 4, the shirts tell the story. 
<p>
<img alt="day-4-highways700x352.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-highways700x352.jpg" width="700" height="352" />
Picture: Day 4, Stamford's Highway Department 
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-4-fire227x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-fire227x400.jpg" width="227" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-4-rescue1-201x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-4-rescue1-201x400.jpg" width="201" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-5-bobcat233x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-5-bobcat233x400.jpg" width="233" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 4, 2 volunteer carpenters and a Bobcat operator. 
<p>
<img alt="more-mud.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/more-mud.jpg" width="700" height="295" />
Picture: Day 5, noon, more mud. 
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-5-irish.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-5-irish.jpg" width="232" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-5-paul207x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-5-paul207x400.jpg" width="207" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-5-toolshed226x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-5-toolshed226x400.jpg" width="226" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 5 volunteers 
<p>
<img alt="day-7-700x272.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-700x272.jpg" width="700" height="272" />
Picture: Day 7, noon.
<p><img alt="day-7-ellenkids-700x384.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-ellenkids-700x384.jpg" width="700" height="384" />
Picture: Day 7 Ellen's children
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-7-milt-clayton.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-milt-clayton.jpg" width="336" height="400" /></TD> <TD><img alt="day-7-erin-rob-dona.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-erin-rob-dona.jpg" width="438" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures:  Day 7: Milt and Charles; Erin and Rob being filmed by Di.
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="140.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/140.jpg" width="140" height="400" /></TD>
<TD><img alt="day-7-jigsaw160.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-jigsaw160.jpg" width="160" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-7-nailing.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-nailing.jpg" width="163" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-7-painting194x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-painting194x400.jpg" width="194" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 7: finishing the job
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-7-rogers504x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-rogers504x400.jpg" width="504" height="400" /></TD> <TD><img alt="bob194x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/bob194x400.jpg" width="194" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Picture: Day 7, getting tools: Rogers Magnet School volunteer with husband; Bob 
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-7-rain-angel184x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-rain-angel184x400.jpg" width="184" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-7-prakash202x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-prakash202x400.jpg" width="202" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-7-leslieUSIS.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-leslieUSIS.jpg" width="222" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Picture: Day 7, more rain but some people just won't quit: Angel (math teacher), Prakash (Water Pollution Control Authority) and Leslie (USIS)
<p>
<img alt="day-7sylvia700x399.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7sylvia700x399.jpg" width="700" height="399" />
Picture: Day 7, at 7:00 PM, Sylvia (right), and 2 able carpenters rush to finish a last critical bit. 
<p>
<img alt="day-7playing700x334.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7playing700x334.jpg" width="700" height="334" />
Picture: Day 7, 7:00 PM the playground isn't quite finished but we can no longer keep the kids away. 
<p>
<img alt="day-7-end-700x416.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-7-end-700x416.jpg" width="700" height="371" />

<p>
<B>PART 11: FINISHING DETAILS AND THE OPENING<?B>
<p>
<img alt="day-8-punchlist700x402.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-8-punchlist700x402.jpg" width="700" height="402" />

Day 8: Reviewing the punch list.
<p>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-8-erin.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-8-erin.jpg" width="220" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="bill-lee310x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/bill-lee310x400.jpg" width="310" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-10.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-10.jpg" width="175" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Erin sorts out the tools to return (Day 8); Lee and Bill from the outside consultant packing up on day 7; final carpentry, courtesy of the Board of Ed (Day 10) 
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-13-sylvia.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-13-sylvia.jpg" width="371" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-13-lighthouse.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-13-lighthouse.jpg" width="133" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-13-painting.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-13-painting.jpg" width="219" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Picture: Day 13 (May 27, 2006) A very tired Sylvia,  the osprey she painted on the lighthouse, her newest assistant. 
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="day-13-angel.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-13-angel.jpg" width="360" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="day-13-slide.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/day-13-slide.jpg" width="369" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Picture: Day 13: Angel helping Sylvia; slide testers at work 
<P>
<img alt="rob-bob-amp-700x438.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/rob-bob-amp-700x438.jpg" width="700" height="438" />
Picture: Day 14: Rob and Bob setting up the amps for the opening ceremony; they even brought the the podium, the ribbon and the "gold"-plated scissors for the ribbon-cutting.  The Parks Department is amazing.
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="mayor210x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/mayor210x400.jpg" width="210" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="vols188x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/vols188x400.jpg" width="188" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="milt-robin242400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/milt-robin242400.jpg" width="242" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 14: The opening ceremony: our mayor (Dan) speaking with a volunteer; volunteers and neighbors listening to our mayor speak; Robin and Milt get well-deserved plaques.
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="mural1-294x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/mural1-294x400.jpg" width="294" height="400" /></TD><TD><img alt="murla2-402x400.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/murla2-402x400.jpg" width="402" height="400" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
Pictures: Day 14: Details from one of the fantastic tile murals created by children from the grammer and middle schools. 

<img alt="kids-river700x446.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/kids-river700x446.jpg" width="700" height="446" />
Pictures:  Day 14: Kids discover the river at the playground's edge.  Perhaps, this is a story about the river after all.

PS. Mid-summer 2006: If you look down at the river bank, just below where the human children in the last picture are standing, you'll see that other children are playing here at night. 
<img alt="RACOON-tracks6540x391.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/RACOON-tracks6540x391.jpg" width="650" height="391" />


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<a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2006/01/stamfords_mill_4.html">Click here</a>  for more information on Stamford's Mill River.  

<HR></HR>
<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
© Sue Sweeney 2006</FONT SIZE="-2">
 <HR></HR>  
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<entry>
   <title>REPLACING THE &quot;LOVELY&quot; CHERRY TREES</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/05/replacing_the_lovely_cherry_tr.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.404</id>
   
   <published>2006-05-14T20:22:28Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best May 14, 2006, Issue 206 REPLACING THE &quot;LOVELY&quot; CHERRY TREES As mentioned in the Mill River Picture Tour, the Army Corps of Engineers&apos; plan to restore and revitalize the Mill River calls for tearing down...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="The Mill River: the Cherry Trees" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.themondaygarden.com/">
      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
May 14, 2006, Issue 206
<p>
<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> REPLACING THE "LOVELY" CHERRY TREES </b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
<p>
As mentioned in <a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/community_walks_suburban_nature/the_mill_river_corridor/">the Mill River Picture Tour</a>, <a href="http://www.nae.usace.army.mil/projects/ct/millriverpond/millriverpond.htm">the Army Corps of Engineers' plan</a> to restore and revitalize the Mill River calls for tearing down the Mill River Dam and the high concrete walls that currently surround the mill pond north of the dam.  The plan's goal is restore this stretch of the river to its pre-1640 state with gentle, sloping flood plains, and gentle, moving currents.  Fish would once again migrate up the stream to spawn; people would be able to kayak for miles and fish for days; and the stream-side critters would be able to make proper homes for themselves. 

So what's not to like?  Right behind the mill pond walls, and dependent on the walls, are the Kwanzan cherry trees given to the City on Arbor Day in 1957 by Junzo Nojima, a Japanese-American who had made his home in Stamford.  When the typical Stamford resident (who has never actually set foot under the cherry trees but does drive by occasionally) first hears about the plan, the reaction is "Eek! No Way!  You can't tear down the lovely cherry trees! Don't you know they were a gift?"  

Not so fast.  Let's take it a step at a time.  Then, perhaps you'll agree that the best thing for the environment, and our view, is the Army Corps of Engineers' plan. 


<img alt="DAM-042806-700x449.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/DAM-042806-700x449.jpg" width="700" height="449" />
Picture: Looking north from the old West Main Street Bridge. Stamford CT April 2006. This dam was built in 1922 as the final successor to a series of mill dams first erected here in 1641.  The 1922 construction also included the high concrete walls around the pond that significantly narrowed the pond, creating more useable land but restricting the river's proper flow.]]>
      <![CDATA[<img alt="FLOOD-042506-700X446.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/FLOOD-042506-700X446.jpg" width="700" height="446" />
Picture:  The pond behind the dam, looking south toward the dam from the middle of the Mill River Park to the west of the Mill River Pond, Stamford CT April 25, 2006.  The high, concrete walls prevent people and animals from directly accessing the river.  Further, at flood time, the walls cause the water to rise too high and run too fast, ripping out the river bed and causing havoc down stream.  As reported in Issue 204, the flooding of April 18-19 due to heavy rains, washed out three-quarters of the goose nests in the vicinity of the pond and probably did equally damage to the nests of our other water fowl. 


<img alt="STAGNANT-05040-700X390.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/STAGNANT-05040-700X390.jpg" width="700" height="390" />
Picture: Looking south at the Mill Pond from the Broad Street Bridge, May 2006.  The "double-whammy" caused by the combination of the walls and the old dam is that, when the river isn't flooding, the water behind the dam is shallow and stagnant, an unhealthy mess of silt, decaying Canada goose poop, and who-knows-what chemical residues from road, lawn, and sewer run-off.  Since the pond receives very little shade (those cherry trees are short!), the situation worsens as the sun intensifies in the summer.  It is this mess that floods downstream into our precious Long Island Sound.  If the river had natural flood plains and a proper continuous flow, this hazardous bio-stew won't build up and the bad chemical stuff would be absorbed into soil of the river bed and the flood plain where nature's filtration system would help lessen the problem.  


<img alt="FISH-041106-700X339.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/FISH-041106-700X339.jpg" width="700" height="339" />
Picture: Looking down into the water, south of the Mill Pond Dam. Stamford CT April 2006.  The dam prevents these fish from mitigating up the Mill River as their ancestors did prior to 1641.  A fish ladder at the side of the dam could help many of the fish get over the dam. However, given the current state of the Mill Pond, if I were one of those fish, I'd turn right around and head back south immediately! 


<img alt="CHERRIES-011206-700X420.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CHERRIES-011206-700X420.jpg" width="700" height="420" />
Picture: Looking north from the south end of the Mill River Park. Stamford CT December 2005.  The problem with implementing the Army Corps of Engineers plan is that Junzo Nojima's cherry trees were planted directly behind the walls, on land needed for sloping flood plains.


<img alt="CORM-042806-700x458.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CORM-042806-700x458.jpg" width="700" height="458" />
Picture: Looking north from Mill Pond toward the Broad Street Bridge. Stamford CT late April 2006:  Even this cormorant seems to thinks that the trees are lovely during their short blooming season.


<img alt="LOVELY-TREES042806-700X461.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/LOVELY-TREES042806-700X461.jpg" width="700" height="461" />
Picture: Looking north from the south end of the Mill River Park.  Stamford CT late April 2006:  This is what most people see when they drive by the Mill River Park in their cars. From a distance, the geriatric state of the trees is not visible, especially when the trees are in bloom.   The lovely looking, but-watch-where-you-step, lawn turf is courtesy of the Canada geese. 


<img alt="LOVELY-FLWR-S042806-700X438.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/LOVELY-FLWR-S042806-700X438.jpg" width="700" height="438" />
Picture: Detail of the above trees.  Stamford CT late April 2006


<img alt="PETALS-050906-700X388.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/PETALS-050906-700X388.jpg" width="700" height="388" />
Picture: Looking down into the Mill Pond from the east wall.  Stamford CT early May 2006:  Cherry blossoms mixed with the spent flowers of the neighboring red oaks, floating down the pond toward the dam, and eventually Long Island Sound.  The flowering season lasts 2 to 3 weeks at best.


<img alt="OLD-TREE-042106-700X449.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/OLD-TREE-042106-700X449.jpg" width="700" height="449" />
Picture:  A Kwanzan cherry tree towards the middle of the cherry walk.  Stamford CT late April 2006:  Kwanzan cherry trees are lovely and fast growing but short lived. Their average age is 15- 25 years.   The Stamford trees have been standing since 1957 - a tribute to our staunch Parks Department and Junzo Nojima's spirit.  By way of comparison, the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens first planted their Kwanzans in 1941 but have replaced them as needed so that, in 2006, the two oldest trees in their cherry walk were planted in 1970.  The Stamford trees are so geriatric that several lost major limbs this year under the weight of the flowering branches.  Most, if not all, have rotted out internally and are at the end of their life span.  


<img alt="LEAVES-050906-700X436.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/LEAVES-050906-700X436.jpg" width="700" height="436" />
Picture:  A Kwanzan cherry tree toward the north end of the cherry walk.  Stamford CT early May 2006.  These Asian natives have been bred to be sterile, so only leaves follow the flowers -- no fruit.  By comparison, our equally-lovely native dogwood (cornus florida) and crabapples provide fruit for our birds and furry critters.  The aging Kwanzan do support a very healthy insect population that certain birds appreciate.  


<img alt="SQUIRREL-050406-700X402.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/SQUIRREL-050406-700X402.jpg" width="700" height="402" />
Picture:  Under the Kwanzan cherry trees toward the middle of the cherry walk.  Stamford CT early May 2006:  This squirrel has little use for the cherry trees except as an overhead highway and a source of edible tree buds during lean winters.  


<img alt="WINTER021406-700X419.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/WINTER021406-700X419.jpg" width="700" height="419" />
Picture: looking south from the middle of the cherry walk.  Stamford CT Valentine's Day 2006.  The cherry trees are too short to provide the squirrels with decent habitat.  Indeed, the squirrels are so hard-up for proper winter housing that they are using a hollow in one the of Kwanzans that is only 3 feet off the ground --not  at all safe from predators. 


THE FUTURE:  The current Mill River Corridor proposal suggests replacing the current aged Kwanzans by planting of young Kwanzans all long the restored river from the Broad Street Bridge at the north end of the Mill River Park to the Pulaski Bridge (where the river enters the Stamford Harbor).   The vision is a seasonal eye-feast to rival Washington DC's, with kayakers enjoying the view from the water, and picnickers on the new great lawn to be built to the east of the current Park.  This proposal has appeal, including commercial aspects that will help pay for the upkeep of the river for everyone's good.  

However, all (alien, sterile) cherries all the time doesn't work for us New Englanders.  Who wants 3 weeks of pretty followed by sterile nothing when we can have it all?  

We need our beautiful, stately hardwoods for their lovely spring flowers, cooling summer foliage and breath-taking fall color -- maples, ashes, hickory, elms, beech, oaks, cottonwood, tulip, birches, and willows, to name a few.  Our critters need the trees for the edible buds, flowers, fruit and nuts, and for their cozy nesting hollows.  We need our wonderful conifers for their welcome winter green and a snug winter home for the song birds- white pines, hemlocks, and junipers.  Along the river banks and at the edge of wooded areas we need our native shrubs to hold down the banks and provide a proper home for the water fowl and muskrats -- elderberry, arrowwood viburnum, pussy willow, silky dogwood, alder, spicebush, winterberry, and so many more.  In between the shrubs, there's even room for our river-side native plants, from spring beauty to joe pye weed.  

Another good thing about these hardy natives is that, once established, they need very little care and will last for many times the useful life of the Kwanzans.

We can have it all.  Assuming that we want to pay for the up-keep of the short-lived, high-maintenance Kwanzans, we can fit in enough Kwanzans groupings here and there to enjoy the annual 3 week show, up and down the river.  If we add to that a full range of our great native Americans, we can have a show every day all year and our critters will have something to eat and a proper place to live.    

<img alt="stone.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/stone.jpg" width="700" height="312" />
Picutre: In this city of immigrants, we'll always need a few cherry trees to keep this stone company.

CONCLUSION:  So, having thought it through, do you still cling to the existing cherry trees or are you wondering where's good old G. Washington with his axe when we need him?

<img alt="SQUIRREL-041806-700x444.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/SQUIRREL-041806-700x444.jpg" width="700" height="444" />


<p>
<center><a href="http://inmygarden.org">return to home page</a></center>
<a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2006/01/stamfords_mill_4.html">Click here</a>  for more information on Stamford's Mill River.  


<HR></HR>
<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
© Sue Sweeney 2006</FONT SIZE="-2">
 <HR></HR>]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>BURN CALORIES, NOT FOSSIL FUEL</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/05/burn_calories_not_fossil_fuel.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.403</id>
   
   <published>2006-05-10T17:08:31Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best May 8, 2006, Issue 205 ENJOY LIFE: BURN CALORIES, NOT FOSSIL FUEL This week I received in my email two organicconsumers.org quotes (reprinted below), courtesy of Stamford Herbalist Laura DePreta (also a certified Master Gardener...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="eco-groceries" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
      <category term="eco-transportation" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.themondaygarden.com/">
      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
May 8, 2006, Issue 205
<p>
<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> ENJOY LIFE: BURN CALORIES, NOT FOSSIL FUEL</b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
<p>
This week I received in my email two organicconsumers.org quotes (reprinted below), courtesy of Stamford Herbalist Laura DePreta (also a certified Master Gardener and an organic home-farmer).  We can enjoy life more while burning calories rather than fossil fuel.  Don’t drive to the store, especially to buy imported (from California) food with low nutritional value.   Rather, walk to the garden and farmers market.  Be healthier and better looking too!

<img alt="LETTUCE650X402.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/LETTUCE650X402.jpg" width="650" height="402" />
picture:  A pot of seed-grown lettuce on my balcony-- 3 full salads or several sandwiches -- squeezed into between the primroses and violas. Stamford CT May 2006; a second pot, sowed 2 weeks later, is "in training".  

"HOW TO BE AN ENVIRONMENTALIST: GOTTA GIT A GREEN THUMB:  If you don't have one already, there's no better time than the  present to start your own vegetable garden, whether it's on your own land or in a local community plot. According to the latest data from the US Department of Agriculture, the level of home food production is at its lowest point in US history. With the average food traveling more than 1500 miles from farm to fork, the environmental impact of big agribusiness foods is at an all time high. Concerned about global warming and peak oil? Consider the fact that it takes 400 calories of fossil fuels to transport a single 5 calorie strawberry from California to East Coast supermarkets. What's more, that flavorless non-organic strawberry was grown with methyl bromide, a carcinogenic and ozone depleting pesticide. In contrast, a perennial patch of strawberries in your yard grows back on its own every year, requires no fossil fuels and no pesticides, and tastes a whole lot better. The environmental benefits of growing some of your own food are staggering. The Organic Consumers Association is developing a new campaign to help turn every thumb into a Green thumb. : <a href="http://www.organicconsumers.org/btc/subversive060419.cfm">Learn more at organicconsumers.org</a>]]>
      <![CDATA[<img alt="PEPPER650X396.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/PEPPER650X396.jpg" width="650" height="396" />
picture:  This eco-"house chili", developed by the Texas Pepper Man (<a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2004/05/the_amazing_ind.html">See  Issue 113</a>) grows on the window sill in the winter and on the balcony in the summer.  Stamford CT May 2006

<img alt="RADISH650X419.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/RADISH650X419.jpg" width="650" height="419" />
picture:  My 10 foot x 5 foot balcony, which receives only morning sun in the summer, also hosts this fine pot of spring radishes, a permanent. large pot of wonderful chocolate mint for tea, and a spring -fall pot of cilantro, as well as assorted bonsai and vacationing houseplants.  Generally, it's too hot and shady on the balcony mid-summer for the primroses, violas, and cilantro, so they go to my mother's garden in June. Stamford CT May 2006

"ORGANIC VS. COMMERCIALLY GROWN:   Just because they are bigger than they used to be, doesn't mean they're as nutritious. According to data collected by the USDA, non-organic vegetables have fewer vitamins and minerals than they did 50 years ago. On an overall scale of all produce tested, protein has declined by six percent, iron has declined 15 percent, vitamin C has dropped 20 percent, and riboflavin has fallen by 38 percent. An analysis of the nutritional drops was published in the Journal of the American College of Nutrition and suggests the loss is due to the increased cultivation of crops that were bred for high growth and production and not for nutritional value. <a href="http://www.organicconsumers.org/politics/FEED060417.cfm">Learn more at organicconsumers.org</a>.


<p>
Speaking of enjoying life more, walk, walk, these two pictures from the Stamford CT Mill River Park explain why. 

<img alt="STREET-042806-700x424.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/STREET-042806-700x424.jpg" width="700" height="424" />
Picture: Corner of Washington Blvd and Broad Street, Stamford CT, May2006 and all that most drivers see of the Cherry trees.  Jim Cameron of <a href="http://metronorthcommuter.blogspot.com//"> the CT Metro-North / Shore Line East Rail Commuter Council  </a>was recently quoted about people  sitting in the smog on I-95  in SUV's that cost more than college tuitions, on their way to buy expensive organic milk.   You could just walk and get to see what's in this park. 

<img alt="WALK-042506-700x485.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/WALK-042506-700x485.jpg" width="700" height="485" />
Picture: Now if you were walking like these two young people, look what you would be enjoying: Stamford CT, May 2006
<p>
<center><a href="http://inmygarden.org">return to home page</a></center>
<HR></HR>
<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
© Sue Sweeney 2006</FONT SIZE="-2">
 <HR></HR>]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>FRIENDS OF THE MILL RIVER</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/04/friends_of_the_mill_river.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.402</id>
   
   <published>2006-04-30T00:13:47Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best April 30, 2006, Issue 204 FRIENDS OF THE MILL RIVER To continue the Mill River series, here is a very, very small sample of the friends of the river. Many are fishers, some are gathers,...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="Friends of the Mill River" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.themondaygarden.com/">
      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
April 30, 2006, Issue 204
<p>
<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> FRIENDS OF THE MILL RIVER</b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
<p>

To continue the Mill River series, here is a very, very small sample of the friends of the river.  Many are fishers, some are gathers, and others just enjoy the waterside environment.
<p>
<img alt="HERON-NIGHT650X388.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/HERON-NIGHT650X388.jpg" width="650" height="388" />
PICTURE: The night heron fishing below the Mill River dam, two of his buddies are in a tree across the way.  Note his long white plumes.  Mill River Dam (at West Main) Stamford CT April 2006
<p>

<img alt="BEE650X305.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/BEE650X305.jpg" width="650" height="305" />
PICTURE: A bee looking for dew, dandelions, and violets Stamford CT April 2006]]>
      <![CDATA[<img alt="SQUIRREL-SEED650X342.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/SQUIRREL-SEED650X342.jpg" width="650" height="342" />
PICTURE: A squirrel, his (or her) nose still dirty from digging, clutches a snack but wants to make sure that I'm not going to steal it.  The Stamford Museum and Nature Center, Stamford C,T April 2006
<p>
<img alt="MASTERGARDENERS650X436.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/MASTERGARDENERS650X436.jpg" width="650" height="436" />
PICTURE:  Master Gardeners checking for native plants, and invasives, in the woods along the Poorhouse Brook, Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT, early April 2006
<p>
<img alt="STARLINGS-LAWN650X259.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/STARLINGS-LAWN650X259.jpg" width="650" height="259" />
PICTURE: Caring for the grass at the Mill River Park ("Cherry Park").  The starlings forge for seeds and small insects; the Canada geese keep the grass uniformly short.  This time of year, after having 50 to 100 grass-eating geese in residence all winter, the park lawn looks like it has been cut, blade-by-blade, with manicure scissors.  If only we had some form of goose-poop control! Stamford CT April 2006
<p>
<img alt="SNAKE650X325.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/SNAKE650X325.jpg" width="650" height="325" />
PICTURE: Last October, we had a month of rain, after 2 months of drought.  This was one of the many wood snakes temporarily driven from their homes along the Poorhouse Brook by the rising waters. Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT October 2005
<p>
<img alt="DOG-SOUTHFIELD650X373.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/DOG-SOUTHFIELD650X373.jpg" width="650" height="373" />
PICTURE:  This dog guards his yard near Southfield Park, south of the mouth of the Mill River.  
<p>
<img alt="MONKS650X319.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/MONKS650X319.jpg" width="650" height="319" />
PICTURE:  Monk parakeets at Southfield Park.  January 2006. These South Americans were involuntary immigrants but thrive here due to their urban-savvy ways.   They don't seem to be disturbing other members of the environment except some humans.  The monks are a legitimate issue for our Parks Department, because the birds like to nest in the park lights.  The Department, laudably, I think, has mostly taken a "live and let live" attitude toward these lovely, resourceful (but somewhat noisy) birds.  
<p>
<img alt="CRAYFISH650X255.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CRAYFISH650X255.jpg" width="650" height="255" />
PICTURE:  A crawfish temporarily removed for study from the Bartlett Arboretum Pond by a UConn Biology Lab class on a field trip.  Stamford CT April 2006
<p>
<img alt="BASEBALL650X393.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/BASEBALL650X393.jpg" width="650" height="393" />
PICTURE: Little league baseball, Scalzi Park, Stamford CT April 2006
<p>
<img alt="GULLS-WADING650X293.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/GULLS-WADING650X293.jpg" width="650" height="293" />
PICTURE:  Immature gulls at Southfield Park.  January 2006. 
<p>
<img alt="SUCKER-FISH650X301.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/SUCKER-FISH650X301.jpg" width="650" height="301" />
PICTURE:  A beautiful (and delicious) golden sucker is caught at the Mill River Dam (at West Main) Stamford CT April 2006.  Many kinds of fish inhabit the brackish water below the dam.  I have also seen baby lobsters sheltering here. 
<p>
<img alt="CHIPMUNK650X324.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CHIPMUNK650X324.jpg" width="650" height="324" />
PICTURE: Chipmunk near the Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT July  2004.  The many chipmunks live in the upland woods along the Mill River and its feeder creeks.  When upset, they make a loud chit-chit-chit sound that can be more persistent  than a car alarm.  This is especially true in the fall when, I guess, they are cranky due to the non-stop work load.   
<P>
<img alt="fishnests650x404.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/fishnests650x404.jpg" width="650" height="404" />
PICTURE:  Fish nests north of the Broad Street Bridge, June 2006
<p>
<img alt="MOTH-GHOST650X253.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/MOTH-GHOST650X253.jpg" width="650" height="253" />
PICTURE:  A ghost moth sheltering under the eaves at Wright Tech next to Scalzi Park July 2005. 
<p>
<img alt="GOOSE-COUPLE650X387.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/GOOSE-COUPLE650X387.jpg" width="650" height="387" />
PICTURE:  Heavy rains caused a big flood last weekend (April 22-23); 3 of 4 Canada goose nests between the Broad Street Bridge and the West Main Bridge (about 2 city blocks) were washed away.  Days later,  the bereft parents, two of whom are pictured here, were still plaintively calling for their lost egg-children.  It is likely that the mallards, and some shore birds, suffered similar losses.  Note:  In May, 30-some baby geese were counted between Board Street and Pulaski; but sadly, as far as north as Scalzi, not a single baby mallard could be found.
<p>
<img alt="JUGANDO-FUTBOL650X345.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/JUGANDO-FUTBOL650X345.jpg" width="650" height="345" />
PICTURE: Noon-time soccer at the Mill River Park ("Cherry Park").  The cherry trees at the river's edge are in the background.  Stamford CT Late April 2006.  
<p>
<img alt="MERGANSERS650X194.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/MERGANSERS650X194.jpg" width="650" height="194" />
PICTURE:  Mergansers and mallards in the winter snow along the Mill River at Scalzi Park, Stamford CT February 2006 
<p>
<img alt="deer-web.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/deer-web.jpg" width="650" height="407" />
PICTURE:  White-tail deer "hiding" along the banks of the Mill River at Scalzi Park, yards from human visitors enjoying Sunday at the park. Stamford CT, June 2006
<P>
<img alt="DOVES650X234.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/DOVES650X234.jpg" width="650" height="234" />
PICTURE:  Mourning doves in a silver maple with bulging spring buds, overhanging the Mill River at Scalzi Park, Stamford CT February 2006 
<p>
<img alt="FISHINIG650X260.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/FISHINIG650X260.jpg" width="650" height="260" />
PICTURE: A master fisherman at work along Mill River at the Mill River Park ("Cherry Park").  Stamford CT Late April 2006.  The river is still high from last week's flood.
<p>
<img alt="WASP650X333.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/WASP650X333.jpg" width="650" height="333" />
PICTURE: Wasp tending the smooth sumac flowers along the Mill River at Scalzi Park, Stamford CT July 2005.
<p>
<img alt="GULL-ON-POST650X320.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/GULL-ON-POST650X320.jpg" width="650" height="320" />
PICTURE:  Gull in the winter sun, north of Southfield Park. , Stamford CT March 2006.
<p>
<img alt="SWAM-SLEEPING650X344.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/SWAM-SLEEPING650X344.jpg" width="650" height="344" />
PICTURE:  Swam sleeping in the West Branch of the Stamford Harbor,  just below the Pulaski Street Bridge where the Mill River empties into the Long Island Sound.  Stamford CT March 2006
<p>
<img alt="CORMORANT650X264.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CORMORANT650X264.jpg" width="650" height="264" />
PICTURE: Cormorant landing just below the Mill River Dam, Stamford CT April 2006
<p>
<img alt="SQUIRREL-BRANCH650X290.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/SQUIRREL-BRANCH650X290.jpg" width="650" height="290" />
PICTURE:  Young squirrel, trying to blend into the tree branch, the Mill Riverwalk at Scalzi Park, Stamford CT February 2006
<p>
<img alt="SNAPPING-TURTLE650X263.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/SNAPPING-TURTLE650X263.jpg" width="650" height="263" />
PICTURE:  Before the mid-April flood, this snapping turtle makes his way across the accumulated leaves then covering the bottom of the Mill Dam pond, on his way to lunch in the channel near the Bridge Street Bridge. Today, he's having the fingerling fish.  The  Mill River at the Mill River Park ("Cherry Park").  Stamford CT April 2006.  
<p>
<img alt="GRACKLE650X310.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/GRACKLE650X310.jpg" width="650" height="310" />
PICTURE:  One of the many, glorious grackles that live along the Mill River.  This one is in a red maple about to burst into bloom along the Mill River walk at Scalzi Park, Stamford CT early April 2006
<p>
<img alt="CLAM650X306.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/CLAM650X306.jpg" width="650" height="306" />
PICTURE:  Last summer's severe drought greatly reduced the water levels in the Bartlett Arboretum wet lands that drain into the Poorhouse Brook.   some critter, probably a raccoon or a muskrat, took advantage of the newly shallow water to dredge up some of the impressively large  fresh water clams that  had been growing under the swamp, undistributed for many years. The Red Maple Wetland Walk at the Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT summer 2005.  
<p>
<img alt="DRAGONFLY-BLUE650X371.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/DRAGONFLY-BLUE650X371.jpg" width="650" height="371" />
PICTURE: A dragonfly pauses briefly to rest in the summer sun.  The Red Maple Wetland Walk at the Bartlett Arboretum, Stamford CT July 2004
<p>
<img alt="FROG-LEOPARD650X325.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/FROG-LEOPARD650X325.jpg" width="650" height="325" />
PICTURE:  A leopard frog at the Bartlett Arboretum pond, Stamford CT April 2006
<P>
<img alt="killdeer-650x246.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/killdeer-650x246.jpg" width="650" height="246" />
PICTURE: Killdeer in the MIll Pond below the Broad Street Bridge, May 2006.  They also might have lost their children in the April flood.  Sometmes, if you look closely near where the plovers are, you can also see a spotted sandpiper (below) 
<P>
<img alt="sandpiper650x320.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/sandpiper650x320.jpg" width="650" height="320" />
PICTURE: Spotted sandpiper in the MIll Pond below the Broad Street Bridge, May 2006, is "given away" by its reflection.
<p>
<center><a href="http://inmygarden.org">return to home page</a></center>
<a href="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/2006/01/stamfords_mill_4.html">Click here</a>  for more information on Stamford's Mill River.  

<HR></HR>
<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
© Sue Sweeney 2006</FONT SIZE="-2">
 <HR></HR>]]>
   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>AVOIDING POISON IVY</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/04/avoiding_poison_ivy.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.401</id>
   
   <published>2006-04-24T17:14:16Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best April 23, 2006, Issue 203 AVOIDING POISON IVY When I&apos;m hiking with a group through the Stamford&apos;s uncultivated areas, I try to remember to point out the poison ivy. Having grown up in the country,...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="poison ivy" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://www.themondaygarden.com/">
      <![CDATA[<FONT SIZE="+1"><b><i>TheMondayGarden.com</i></b></FONT SIZE="+1">, <i>Eco-gardening at its best</i><p>
April 23, 2006, Issue 203
<p>
<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+2"color="red"><b> AVOIDING POISON IVY</b></FONT SIZE="+2"></CENTER>
<p>

When I'm hiking with a group through the Stamford's uncultivated areas, I try to remember to point out the poison ivy.  Having grown up in the country, I forget that many people haven't learned to recognize this serious peril of the 
urban wilderness, and their own backyards.  Inevitably, I hear someone say that they don’t get poison ivy.  Not so fast; my own grandmother ended up in the hospital by believing that her life-long immunity to poison ivy had carried over into her senior years.   

<img alt="POISON-IVY-PIVET-HEDGE650X4.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-PIVET-HEDGE650X4.jpg" width="650" height="443" />
PICTURE: Poison ivy thriving in a privet hedge along a sidewalk on Morgan Street, Stamford CT May 2005

<strong>POISON IVY'S EFFECT ON HUMANS </strong>
According to the Food and Drug Administration, 50 to 70 % of us are allergic to poison ivy and most of the rest will become allergic if exposed.  The American Academy of Dermatologists estimates that, annually, between 10 and 50 millions Americans have an unfortunate encounter with poison ivy.  The usual allergic response is an annoying rash.  Extreme cases, though, can result in hospitalization, and serious, long-term health issues.]]>
      <![CDATA[Avoid contact with smoke that might come from burning poison ivy such as a burning leaf pile, or a brush or forest fire.  Even a lungful of the air-borne poison ivy oils can be serious.  Likewise, don't get the oil in your eyes.   If either of these events occurs, get to the emergency room.


<strong>HOW POISON IVY WORKS</strong>
All parts of poison ivy, except, mercifully, the pollen, contain an oil called “urushiol”.  Urushiol is chemically stable, so it doesn’t break down or evaporate easily; it’s sticky, so that it readily adheres to anything it touches; and it’s not water soluble, so it’s hard to wash off.  

Urushiol is always active, even if the plant is winter-dormant or dead.  Old lab specimens and unwashed camping gear have caused rashes.  Even fire doesn’t destroy urushiol.  When poison ivy is burned, the urushiol bonds with the soot particles, and floats off in the smoke.  

Further, urushiol starts to absorb through the skin in minutes.  It bonds with inner-skin proteins to create new compounds, which the immune system of 80 to 90 % of humankind treats as an invading disease.  The itching, redness, and blisters are our allergic reaction to the plant.  The symptoms can appear in hours, days or even a week after contact.  Like other auto-immune disorders, a serious poison ivy bout can damage joints and internal organs.  

Because it's an allergic reaction, the effect is cumulative.  You might have no reaction at first but your immune system is only warming up.  Additionally, the initial reaction will be less if your immune system is suppressed for any reason.  Conversely, the allergic reaction increases as skin thins with age, and as your natural protective oils are thinned by washing, diet, age, or other cause.  

Urushiol is not on the plant’s surface until secreted through even the smallest bruise.  So you can brush the plant 50 times with no effect but, then, if the next piece you touch was crushed by a rake or chewed by a rabbit.…

Lastly, sticky urushiol not only adheres to anything it touches, it stays on the surface a long time, and it transfers readily from surface to surface.  For example, it will transfer from the dog’s coat to your face.  It doesn’t take much; urushiol is so potent that they say that a ¼ ounce could give the entire human race a rash.
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-LEAF-ONE342X350.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-LEAF-ONE342X350.jpg" width="342" height="350" /></TD><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-LEAF-2-355X350.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-LEAF-2-355X350.jpg" width="355" height="350" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
PICTURES: Poison ivy around town, early summer 2005.  Note that in both pictures some leaves have smooth edges and some are in the lobed "oak-leaf" form.  Note also the sheen to the young leaves on the right. 

LE<strong>AFLETS THREE, LET IT BE</strong> 
It is best to learn recognize poison ivy and avoid it.  Recognizing poison ivy, though, is tougher than it sounds because the plant takes many forms.  In Stamford, it can be a climbing vine, free-standing shrub or ground-cover.  The leaflets can be smooth-edged, lobed or partially lobed.  There's nothing but gray stems and hairy rootlets in winter.  The early spring color is bright, shiny red, followed by shiny or matte green leaves.  The small flowers and berries are creamy white. The fall colors are purple, red, orange and yellow. The dead leaves on the ground can be very pale yellow or any shade of brown. 

Look for the three leaves and an almost-always present sheen to the leaves.  Learn to tell the various leaf forms and colors; if you’re not sure, treat the plant as poison ivy.  

<strong>FIRST AID</strong>
Get the oil off fast.  It’s not water soluble so using plain water or water plus an oil-based soap spreads the urushiol.  Use an alkali soap like naphtha soap or a dishwashing soap with a "degreaser".  Alcohol and other solvents for oil-based products also work.  Take a shower-- not a bath -- or you could end up with a whole-body rash.  

In the wild, use any available water.  To get the oil off, use mud, baking soda, wood ashes or, if you can find it, Bouncing Bet (Saponaria officinales) (a useful European import, high in saponin, makes an oil-free soap).  The juice of jewelweed (Impatiens capensis, I. pallida) is suspected to have urushiol-blocking compounds and is known to be anti-inflammatory; a tea or poultice made from plantain leaf (Plantago lanceolata, P. major) is also said to help for similar reasons.  

There are over-the-counter products said to block the oil from entering the skin and/or remove the oil after contact.  Some of these products are said to be more effective than others, so do your research.

<img alt="POISON-IVY-FLOWERS650X495.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-FLOWERS650X495.jpg" width="650" height="495" />
PICTURE:  Poison ivy about to burst in to flower on the big red oak in Hoyt Street Alley. May 2004

<strong>BACKGROUND AND HISTORY</strong>
Poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans), a woody-stemmed perennial, belongs to the same family as cashew, mango, pistachio, and sumac.  Poison ivy and poison oak are either a single species or about 15 –  toxicologists don’t agree.  In any case, poison ivy is native to North and Central America, and to parts of Asia.  Early European visitors took the stuff home for the autumn garden; so it now also grows in Europe and Australia.  

Only humans are allergic to poison ivy.  Deer and rabbits relish the leaves.  Squirrels nest in it.  Bees make honey from it.  Goats readily eat poison ivy, and, curiously, the toxins aren't passed into the goat milk. 
 
Birds like the white poison ivy berries.  As a result, the non-digestible seeds end up, fertilized with bird droppings, under roosting places.  This works for the birds and the poison ivy.  In the forest shade, poison ivy seedlings don't crowd out other plants, which works for the eco-system.  However, as humans have cut back by forest, the poison ivy population has gotten out of balance.  Today, you'll find poison ivy sneaking out from under of hedges all over town, climbing up trees along the highways, and forming free-standing shrubs along the Long Island Sound.  

PICTURE: The winter look of poison ivy (on the big red oak in Hoyt Street Alley)-- note the red thread-like root hairs  on the older vines and "polka dot" lenticels (pores) on the younger ones.  March 2004

<strong>GETTING RID OF POISON IVY </strong>
Some conservationists, who would eradicate alien invasives such as porcelain vine, and Asiatic bittersweet, urge us to leave the native poison ivy alone.  Poison ivy may be native but it is also an "enhanced species".  This means that the species has gained an advantage from human contact.  Examples of enhanced species include white-tailed deer, ragweed, cockroaches, and house cats.  

When I was a kid, humans balanced out their poison-ivy-enhancing behavior by pulling the plant up anywhere it was found.  Today, I think we should do the same.  

It is best to root out the whole plant while it is small.  Do as the "pooper-scoopers" do: use a couple of layers of plastic shopping bag as an oversized glove to protect your hand while pulling up the plant; then, reverse the bag to cover the plant; tie and drop in the garbage.  

Larger plants and vines can be cut off at ground level (by non-sensitive persons, wearing protective clothing) .  Dig up the tap root, then destroy it by placing in sealed black garage bag for a few months.  Consider leaving vine-tops to die in place.  Do not to pull down a vine without serious protection, particularly for the face, eyes, and hands. Wash contaminated clothing separately.

 <TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-BUD195X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-BUD195X300.jpg" width="195" height="300" /></TD><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-BUD2-184X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-BUD2-184X300.jpg" width="184" height="300" /></TD><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-BERRY198X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-BERRY198X300.jpg" width="198" height="300" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
PICTURES FROM THE LEFT: Poison ivy bud just starting to open along the Mill River just north of Tresser Blvd April 2006; a young vine snaking up an ailanthus tree along the Mill River near Cloonan Middle School, Stamford CT April 2006;  The whitish-berries on Morgan Street, Stamford CT Nov. 2004.

<img alt="POISON-IVY-SPRING650X427.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-SPRING650X427.jpg" width="650" height="427" />
PICTURE:   Poison ivy leafing out in early spring, near Stamford High School, April 2004

For a major infestation, repeated cutting to the ground helps if done consistently.  The best way, seriously, is to hire a goat.  Alternatively, poison ivy can be smothered (along with everything else) by covering for several months with a foot of mulch, a black plastic trap or the like.

Some horticulturists recommend herbicides.  However, the available information on a possible link between lymphoma and others cancers and certain herbicides is disturbing, so why take a chance?  If you feel that you must use herbicides, consider the following.  In the fall, when the plant is pulling sap down into the roots, first read up on precautions for using pesticides, then buy the smallest possible amount of your chosen product, read the label and do exactly what the label says, except don't use a sprayer.  Instead, cut the poison ivy to the ground and very carefully paint each cut stem with the herbicide diluted according to the label.  Lastly, carefully follow the law as to proper disposal of any leftover herbicide, contaminated tools and clothing, and your wash-up water.

<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-SPRING1-213X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-SPRING1-213X300.jpg" width="213" height="300" /></TD><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-SPRING2-225X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-SPRING2-225X300.jpg" width="225" height="300" /></TD><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-SPRING3-206X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-SPRING3-206X300.jpg" width="206" height="300" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
PICTURES:  Poison ivy leafing out in spring, various locations, Stamford April 2005, Note the red color. 
<P>
<TABLE><TR><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-FALL3-6-354X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-FALL3-6-354X300.jpg" width="354" height="300" /></TD><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-FALL2-3-234X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-FALL2-3-234X300.jpg" width="234" height="300" /></TD><TD><img alt="POISON-IVY-FALL87X300.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-FALL87X300.jpg" width="87" height="300" /></TD></TR></TABLE>
PICTURES FROM LEFT: The red poison ivy leaves turn yellowish and soft as they fall to the pavement in the October rain, Hoyt Street Alley, 2004.  Detail of one of the fallen leaflets, not looking like poison ivy without its two mates but just as poisonous. A leaf in a hedge along the same alleyway in 2005.   Note the "herring bone" pattern of the leaf veins.  

<img alt="POISON-IVY-WOODBINE-650X430.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-WOODBINE-650X430.jpg" width="650" height="430" />
PICTURE: poison ivy with THREE leaflets and woodbine (Virginia creeper) with FIVE leaflets.  Try to learn to tell the difference. 

<img alt="POISON-IVY-FALL650X474.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/POISON-IVY-FALL650X474.jpg" width="650" height="474" />
PICTURE: poison ivy enjoying the fine fall weather at Cove Island, October 2003.

<TABLE><TR><TD><CENTER> <img alt="a-smooth-edge-300x241.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/a-smooth-edge-300x241.jpg" width="241" height="300" border="0" /> </CENTER><CENTER><FONT SIZE="-2"> picture: smooth-edged poison ivy leaf </FONT SIZE="-2"></CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER> <img alt="b-toothed-300x231.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/b-toothed-300x231.jpg" width="231" height="300" border="0" /> </CENTER><CENTER><FONT SIZE="-2"> picture: toothed poison ivy leaf  </FONT SIZE="-2"></CENTER></TD></TR><tr>
<TD><CENTER> <img alt="c-oakleafed-300x199.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/c-oakleafed-300x199.jpg" width="199" height="300" border="0" /></CENTER><CENTER><FONT SIZE="-2"> picture: lobed poison ivy leaf </FONT SIZE="-2"></CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER> <img alt="c-1oakleafed-300x185.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/c-1oakleafed-300x185.jpg" width="185" height="300" border="0" /> </CENTER><CENTER><FONT SIZE="-2"> picture: oak-leaf shaped poison ivy leaf </FONT SIZE="-2"></CENTER></TD></TR> </TABLE>


<TABLE><TR><TD><CENTER> <img alt="d-reddish-new-leaf-300x176.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/d-reddish-new-leaf-300x176.jpg" width="176" height="300" border="0" /> </CENTER><CENTER><FONT SIZE="-2"> picture: reddish new poison ivy leaf </FONT SIZE="-2"></CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER> <img alt="e-light-leaf-300x193.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/e-light-leaf-300x193.jpg" width="193" height="300" border="0" /> </CENTER><CENTER><FONT SIZE="-2"> picture: light yellow-green poison ivy leaf  </FONT SIZE="-2"></CENTER></TD><TD><CENTER>  <img alt="f-dark-greenleaf-300x239.jpg" src="http://www.inmygarden.org/archives/f-dark-greenleaf-300x239.jpg" width="239" height="300" border="0" /></CENTER><CENTER><FONT SIZE="-2"> picture: dark green  poison ivy leaf </FONT SIZE="-2"></CENTER></TD></TR></TABLE>

<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+1"color="red"><b> For more pictures of poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac, 
see the web site of my colleague <a href="http://ontariotrees.com/main/s/sumac/poison/index.html">Walter Muma. </a></b></FONT SIZE="+1"></CENTER>

<p>
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<FONT SIZE="-2"> Photo credits: Sue Sweeney  
© Sue Sweeney 2006</FONT SIZE="-2">
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   </content>
</entry>

<entry>
   <title>THE DANDELION TERMINATOR IS HERE-</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.themondaygarden.org/archives/2006/04/the_dandelion_terminator_is_he.html" />
   <id>tag:www.themondaygarden.com,2006://3.400</id>
   
   <published>2006-04-17T16:37:20Z</published>
   <updated>2007-02-09T14:09:23Z</updated>
   
   <summary>TheMondayGarden.com, Eco-gardening at its best April 16, 2006, Issue 202 THE DANDELION TERMINATOR IS HERE CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD PRINT-QUALITY COPY OF THIS ARTILCE GOOD NEWS: Now you can get rid your lawn of weeds without chemicals or a backache....</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Sue W. Sweeney</name>
      <uri>http://www.themondaygarden.com</uri>
   </author>
   
      <category term="Controlling invasives and weeds" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
      <category